Used Hyundai i40

What to know before buying: Hyundai i40

From 1 forum thread and 3 press tests · updated 12/10/2026

What the reviews say

• The wagon has a 553-litre boot and generous rear legroom; two adults are especially comfortable, while three can fit when necessary.[2]one sourceVF series
• The tested 136 hp 1.7 CRDi was quiet and comfortable over long distances; real-world consumption was about 6 l/100 km and reached 4.8 l/100 km on the highway.[2]one sourceVF series
• Steering response felt artificial in the test, but the suspension absorbed patched roads and potholes well and remained stable on rough gravel.[2]one sourceVF series
• Two owners of 2015 2.0 diesel automatics praised the equipment, performance and looks, but both noted restricted visibility around the front pillar.[1]one sourceVF series
• Cabin-comfort opinions differ: the road test found the car quiet and comfortable, while a 2014 owner criticised insulation, driving position and seats.[2][1]VF series

Typical faults

• The 2.0 GDI G4NC is reported to consume oil as mileage rises: carbon can stick the oil-control rings, while a low level may accelerate bearing wear.[4]one sourceVF series

  2011–2019 · G4NC 2.0 GDI petrol

• Direct injection can leave carbon on the 2.0 GDI intake valves, causing rough cold idle, hesitation, misfires and worsening fuel economy.[4]one sourceVF series

  2011–2019 · G4NC 2.0 GDI petrol

• On the 2.0 GDI, extended oil-change intervals accelerate chain and tensioner wear; the warning sign is a worsening rattle for a few seconds after a cold start.[4]one sourceVF series

  2011–2019 · G4NC 2.0 GDI petrol

• On short trips, the 1.7 CRDi DPF may fail to regenerate, clog and allow diesel into the sump; the oil level rises and diluted oil accelerates engine wear.[4]one sourceVF series

  2011–2019 · D4FD 1.7 CRDi diesel

• The 1.7 CRDi has reported injector faults that trigger limp mode, along with occasional premature turbocharger failures.[4]one sourceVF series

  2011–2019 · D4FD 1.7 CRDi diesel

• Two forum owners reported clutch replacement at 44,000 and 121,000 km; in the latter case, the release bearing and dual-mass flywheel were replaced too.[3]one sourceVF series

  44 000–121 000 km

• Several forum owners described coolant entering the engine and causing severe engine damage; these are owner reports, not an official failure rate.[3]one sourceVF series
• Two forum owners reported replacing the crankshaft pulley; one specified 100,000 km, while the other did not state the mileage when it failed.[3]one sourceVF series

  100 000–100 000 km

Which engine and version to take

• The 136 hp 1.7 CRDi can suit regular long trips: it was quiet, comfortable and used about 6 l/100 km in testing, while highway use also supports DPF regeneration.[2][4]VF series
• Consider the 2.0 GDI only with convincing service history and an oil level that remains stable between changes; the source rates it reasonably reliable with those caveats.[4]one sourceVF series

What to avoid

• Avoid a 1.7 CRDi used mainly for short urban trips or showing a rising oil level, DPF warnings, limp mode or heavy exhaust smoke.[4]one sourceVF series
• Avoid a 2.0 GDI with a falling oil level, worsening cold-start rattle, deep knocking under load or incomplete service history.[4]one sourceVF series

What to check at the inspection

• Check the service history and confirm that the oil level stayed stable between changes, especially on a 2.0 GDI car.[4]one sourceVF series
• Check the dipstick: a falling level on the petrol engine may indicate oil consumption, while an above-full level on the diesel suggests fuel dilution.[4]one sourceVF series
• Start the 2.0 GDI from fully cold and listen for chain or tensioner rattle during the first few seconds, particularly if it is worsening.[4]one sourceVF series
• On the diesel, check for DPF or engine warnings, limp mode and heavy smoke; on the petrol, watch for rough idle, hesitation and misfires.[4]one sourceVF series
• With the manual gearbox cold, check first- and second-gear engagement and the operation of the clutch, release bearing and dual-mass flywheel.[3]one sourceVF series
• Check the coolant level and investigate any loss, as forum owners described coolant entering the engine and causing severe damage.[3]one sourceVF series
• Check every headlamp LED: one owner reported that a failed left-side LED required replacing the complete lamp because the internal module was not available separately.[3]one sourceVF series
• Check the VIN before purchase to identify any outstanding recall work.[4]one sourceVF series

Verdict

Sources

1. [1]auto.jautajums.lv — Hyundai i40 atsauksmes | jautajums.lv - Auto, moto · forum
2. [2]whatcar.lv — Iemēģināts: Hyundai i40 - Testa brauciens - WhatCar.lv · press
3. [3]forohyundai.com — Problemas i40 · press
4. [4]hyunengines.com.au — Common Hyundai i40 Engine Problems and How to Fix ... · press

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